Thailand Restaurant Has Something for Everyone

Since the arrival of the Whole Foods Market last June, the Alto Shopping Center is about as bustling as it gets in Mill Valley. Thailand Restaurant, which opened in February next door in the space formerly occupied Antigua Mexican Grill, offers a tasty-yet-serene escape from that hustle and bustle.

Opened by sisters Tina (manager) and Cathy (chef) Vongsouthi sisters, Thailand serves up food that is neither Northern or Southern Thai in focus but designed to attract a cross-over audience of Marin families, from office workers on lunch break to weekend hikers on their way home from Mount Tam.

Familiar dishes like Pad Thai, Barbeque Rice Plate and Red, Yellow or Green Curry prove that Cathy Vongsouthi perfected her craft over more than 17 years as chef at in San Rafael. She credits her cooking style to her mom. 

Vongsouthi brings an “everything homemade” ethic to her food and the focus on freshness and quality over quantity is evident on the plate. The chicken is free-range and the chef seeks out local and organic whenever possible. 

All curry pastes are made in house and taste warm and bright, not tinny. True to the cuisine of Thailand, which includes hot, sour, sweet, salty and bitter flavors in a well-rounded meal, there are chilies in many of the dishes, noted on the menu using red (very hot) and yellow (hot) chilies.

Vegan Fresh Rolls (no chilies) were stuffed with bean sprouts, mung bean noodles and Enoki mushrooms. Fragrant coconut milk soup or Tom Ka (yellow chili) was loaded with vegetables and tofu and achieved the fine balance between creamy, spicy and sour. Spicy Eggplant (red chili) was served in large chunks and was perfectly cooked – browned on the outside, soft on the inside – and not greasy. 

Pad Thai (no chilies), one of the national dishes of Thailand, was satisfactory, not sour or spicy, but needed a stronger dose of the pungent fish sauce and tamarind traditionally found in this dish to achieve its full potential. A national dish is subject to myriad interpretations - is this milder version a Vongsouthi family recipe?

But skip away from the protein and vegetables for a moment and notice the rice. It was the perfectly cooked rice and noodles, an integral component to every dish and to Thai cuisine, which won over my table. Neither too mushy nor too firm but tender and slightly chewy, these seemingly simple carbohydrates, prepared “just so,” made this a stand-out experience and were the center of attention in the post-meal conversation.

The menu offers something for everyone including your gluten-free-vegan best friend, your meat-loving husband and your soy-free toddler. Even the Thai iced tea is available dairy-free. Vegetarian and vegan menu items are numerous and gluten-free noodles are noted on the menu. Servings are generous. 

The newly re-built interior is warm and inviting and reflects the Thai heritage of its owners. Fresh flowers adorn every table and are a design element throughout the restaurant. Walls are painted a warm combination of deep orange and bright green; dark wood chairs and richly colored booth seating frames the room and invites conversation. A small waiting area at the front is perfect for parking strollers.

Service was attentive and friendly and perfectly timed for the mom-and-kids crowd.  Extra napkins and plastic bowls and spoons were offered for the toddlers and the food came so quickly (upon request) that my two-year old had no chance to wiggle before dipping a spoon into the Tom Ka. Be sure to ask about the daily specials and the house made desserts. A beer and wine list is available.

Appetizers, soup and salad range from $7 for Vegan Fresh Rolls to $14 for a large bowl of Seafood Soup (Po Tak) while entrees, noodles and rice range from $11 for Pad Thai to $14 for Pad Khing with Duck. Prices are the same at lunch and dinner but the real deal is the Thailand Specialty Lunch Box. $15 includes a bowl of vegetable coconut milk soup (Tom Ka), one egg roll with chicken, one prawn eggroll (Goon Gra Borg), one of five entrées and a soda.

Thailand Restaurant offers fresh, savory Thai food, stand-out rice and noodles and a customizable menu in an attractive setting. I expect the food to keep getting better under this talented chef.

The 411: Thailand Restaurant, 721 E Blithedale Ave, Suite B, 415.381.1800. Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily for lunch. Sun. to Wed.: 4:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Thu.-Sat.: 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.